Lombok doesn’t announce itself. There are no billboard welcomes or curated first impressions, just the slow chaos of Bangsal Port giving way to a road that cuts south through the island. Rolling hills, roadside fruit stalls, wild monkeys, scattered litter. We crossed the entire length to reach Selong Belanak, and somewhere along the way, it became clear that Lombok wasn’t trying to impress anyone. It didn’t need to.
That’s the thing about Bali’s quieter neighbour. It still carries a rawness you rarely find anymore: unhurried, genuinely local, and unbothered by the tourist gaze. Think of it as Bali, fifty years ago, before the yoga retreats and the Instagram crowds arrived. The road south made one stop non-negotiable: Sukarara Village. Women here weave the way they always have, by hand, on wooden looms, with patterns that carry centuries of tradition. We bought a few pieces, partly because they were absolutely worth buying, and partly because leaving empty-handed felt almost rude.
Lombok is predominantly Muslim, and the further south we travelled, the more the island’s character shifted. Gone were Bali’s incense-filled streets and Hindu offerings, replaced by the melodic call to prayer drifting from loudspeakers across the hills. A different sound, a different pace, and yet the warmth of the people remained exactly the same.
Sempiak Seaside Resort sits above Selong Belanak Bay like it was put there deliberately (which, to be fair, it was). Our base was Villa Kenari, perched high on the hill, with an infinity pool that faced west at exactly the right angle. Every evening, the sky put on a show over the Indian Ocean. The beach was a short walk downhill — and a very different kind of scene. A long stretch of pale sand and water buffaloes doing their afternoon rounds as if tourists were the strange ones for being surprised. We surfed for the first time here, on waves gentle enough to be forgiving, though we were terrible at it.
The resort works for different kinds of travellers. There are simple holiday houses for those who just need a base, and there are villas for those who want the full experience. What ties it all together is the atmosphere: calm and completely in tune with the landscape. At one point, a troupe of monkeys dropped by to cool off in our pool and wake us up in the morning. A complimentary service.
One thing worth knowing: the restaurant, Laut Biru Bar & Restaurant, is just fine. Fresh ingredients, decent food, but the service was inconsistent. The language barrier occasionally gets in the way. It’s the one area where the resort doesn’t quite match its own standards. Everything else does.
A short drive from Selong Belanak took us to the Secret Gilis. We spent the day snorkelling with Yean and the team from Lombok Ndai Tour, drifting over coral gardens, tracking clownfish, and counting starfish in every colour. Our first snorkelling experience, and not a bad one to start with. We saw no turtles this time, but that’s what second trips are for.
Lombok is not trying to be Bali, and that’s exactly the point. It’s calmer, less visited, and quietly confident in what it offers. Secluded beaches like Tanjung Aan and Mawun, villages where weaving and pottery are still a way of life, and Mount Rinjani for those who want to earn their views. Our time here felt shorter than it was. We left wanting more.
Lombok suits those who are happy to trade convenience for character. If you need a packed activity schedule, reliable English everywhere, or a premium resort with a concierge on call, this probably isn’t your island. But if you’re after space, nature, and the feeling of having found something most people haven’t bothered to look for yet — it delivers.
#AAA
Alfonso All Around 
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