Travelling through Vietnam by train had long been on our list, and the Reunification Express felt like the most authentic way to do it. We boarded in Da Nang, joining locals on their daily journeys south, slow enough to let us actually see the country. Rice fields rolled past to the right, farmers working under wide-brimmed hats. To the left, glimpses of the sea. Around us in the wagon, people sharing food, playing cards, getting on with their day. It felt less like tourism and more like being briefly allowed into someone else’s routine.

One thing worth knowing: seat numbers on the online booking platform are more of a suggestion than a guarantee. Each train runs different rolling stock with different internal layouts, and neither the website nor the ticket office can tell you in advance whether your seat will have a window or which direction it will face. Even the staff don’t always know. Book the class you want, accept the uncertainty, and enjoy the ride regardless (or swap seats once on board if you get the chance).

Quy Nhon was our first stop, and it caught us off guard. Fishing boats and modern cafés sharing the same waterfront, and a pace that felt entirely its own. Not much to do beyond the beach, a meal, and a walk, which, depending on what you’re after, is either a drawback or exactly the point. We stayed at L’amor Boutique Hotel, a short walk from the main beach. The suite was generous in size, with views extending to the sea.

Breakfast was varied and the restaurant food overall decent, but a few lost-in-translation moments (ordering one dish and receiving something else entirely) pushed us towards the local dining scene. There are plenty of restaurants nearby, but we ended up at Sho Japanese Restaurant most evenings. Consistent, well-executed Japanese food, and worth going back to.

The rooftop pool became our default late afternoon spot. The views from up there, and from the suite, were genuinely good. The room came with an in-room guitar, which either delights you or means nothing depending on whether you play. We used it just for fun.

While in Quy Nhon, we took a trip to Ky Co Beach — worthwhile, with one caveat. We visited in March, which sits at the edge of high season, and most restaurants were closed. The beach itself more than compensated: a calm bay, largely untouched, dotted with tiny coconut boats drifting on the water, and almost no one around. If you go between April and September, you’ll find more options open.

The best surprise in Quy Nhon had nothing to do with beaches. At 2’T Barber House, we had what might genuinely be the best haircut and beard trim we’ve ever had, in Europe, Vietnam, or anywhere else. The barbers are meticulous in a way that turns what’s usually a quick chore into a proper head and shoulder treatment. If you find yourself in Quy Nhon, don’t skip it. You can go check out the owner, Tuong’s work on Instagram at @terryy.ig.

Quy Nhon doesn’t shout for attention. From the green fields rolling past the train window on the way in, to the freshly squeezed sugar cane juices at Four Seasons Beach on the way out, it just gets on with it. Before long, it was time to board the Reunification Express again, and head to the next stop.

#AAA

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